Collar and method of making collars



M at? Aug. 4, 1959 -r. D: AINSLIE 2,

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING. COLLARS Filed May 5. 1956 m3 FIG.1. 2

IN VEN TOR.

wake dil'orley United @rares ate-m COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING COLLARSThomas Dow Ainslie, Metuchen, NJ.,. assignor to Phillips-Van HeusenCorporation, New York, N.Y., a corporation of New York Application May3, 1956, Serial No. 582,522

1 Claim. (Cl. 2-132) This invention relates to collars, and moreparticularly tothose of the type which are permanently or detachablysecured to; mens shirts- It is one of the objects of the invention toprovide a collar constructionin which wrinkling of the body of thecollar and rolling or turning up of the tips orextremities of the collarwill be materially retarded- It is an object of the invention to.provide means at the rear of the collar body by which predeterminedstress or tensi'oncan be applied to thereby cause the collar body, inthe area of the extremities or points, to tend to assume a convex formand act resistantly to outward curling when the collar is worn.

It is another object of the invention to provide means, in the form of apatch or fabric section, at the rear of the collar at the front portion,which can be of greater shrinkage tendencies than the body of thecollar, whereby the greater shrinkage of the patch will apply tension tothe body of the collar transversely of the collar and cause the same toresist any outward curling inclination.

It is still another object of the invention to provide a patch or fabricsection of substantially triangulated form, at the front of the collarat the rear thereof, which fabric section can, if desired, be utilizedas a pocket for the reception of a permanent or removable stay, andwhich fabric section can be tensioned when the collar is sewed to theshirt and can be thus caused to operate to apply pull on the body of thecollar in a manner to resist outward curling of the same.

With these, and other objects to be hereinafter set forth in view, Ihave devised the arrangement of parts to be described and moreparticularly pointed out in the claim appended hereto.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein an illustrative embodiment of theinvention is disclosed,

Fig. 1 is a face view, looking at the rear or inside face, of a portionof a collar in which the present invention is embodied;

Fig. 2 is a front elevational view of the complete collar, looking atthe outer face of the same and in readiness for attachment to a shirt;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. l, but showing the applied patch orfabric section partially detached from the body of the collar todisclose construction;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the patch or applied fabric section;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view, taken substantially on the line 5-5 of Fig.1, looking in the direction of the arrows, and

Fig. 6 is a view showing a slightly modified construction.

Referring to the drawing, 1 indicates a collar blank or body, which maybe of any of the conventional shapes known in the trade, and both endsof the collar will be shaped and constructed substantially as shown inFig. 1.

The body of the collar may be made of any relatively heavy material,such as duck, or of a multi-ply material also of considerable thicknessand weight and such as is widely used for collar manufacture. The upperedge of the collar, or that edge which is secured in the collar band ofthe shirt, is that indicated at 2; the lower edge of the collar beingindicated at 3, and the forward edge at 7. In the manufacture of thesecollars, a binding strip 4 is applied over the lower edge 3 and securedby a line of stitching indicated at 5. A binding strip 8 is also appliedover the forward ends 7 of the collar, and the bindings 8 are each'secured in place by a line of stitching indicated at 9.

The reinforcement, patch or fabric section 11,. applied as shown in-Fig. 1, is most clearly disclosed in Fig. 4, wherein it will be observedthat the same con sists of a section of fabric of relatively lightweight as compared to the material of the body of the collar. The piece11 is angularly, doubled upon itself, as indicated at 12, to thereuponproduce atwo-ply patch of truncated triangular form, its plies beingshown at 13 and I4. As an alternative this patch may be composed of twoseparate and similar pieces of material placed in facial relation.

In continuing the operations on the collar, the lower edge 3 is inturnedin amanner to bring the bound edge behind the body of the blank, whilethe ends 7' are similarly' inturned to bring the bindings 8 behind thebody of the blank. The edges 3 and 7 are maintained in such inturnedcondition by means of the single lines of stitching shown respectivelyat 6 and 10, such lines of stitching being the only stitching observableon the exterior of the collar, as shown in Fig. 2.

The two-ply reinforcement piece or patch 11 is maintained in place bythe stitching it which extends along the marginal edges 15 of the plies13 and 14, and also by the stitching 6 which extends through the loweredges 16 of said plies. The top edges 17 can, if desired, be secured tothe body 1 by a line of stitching 18a or these edges can be left freeuntil the reinforcement 11 is tensioned when the collar is being sewedinto the neckb-and as will be described.

If a stiifening member or stay is to be employed in the collar, a pocket25 (Fig. 5) is produced between the plies 13 and 14, by means of theangularly-disposed parallel lines of stitching Zl and 22, extendingthrough both plies 13 and 14 of the reinforcing piece. If thereinforcing patch is composed of two separate pieces of fabric ratherthan the doubled-over piece shown in Fig. 4, the stitching 21 and 22will hold the two plies together. A stiifening strip is shown at 24 inplace in the pocket 25 and it may be permanently retained therein or maybe removed and replaced through a slot, not shown, but which can beprovided in the upper end portion of the pocket 25 adjacent to the lineof stitching 18 which normally closes that end of the pocket.

From the foregoing description it will be apparent that there isprovided in the collar, in the forward portions thereof, reinforcingpieces which are of triangulated form and have free angular edges 12.When the collar is attached into a neckbancl, the operator can applytension to the patch in a direction substantially transverse to thelength of the collar and which will, after being sewn in place, remainunder stress and thus tend to curve the collar fabric inwardly orconvefly, causing the body of the collar to strongly resist the normaltendency to curl upwardly and outwardly when the collar is worn. It isalso possible to make the reinforcement patches of a. material having agreater shrinkage capacity than the body of the collar so thatlaundering will cause the reinforcing patch to shrink to a greaterdegree than the collar body, thus keeping the points of the collar fromcurling upwardly.

The area of the patch is such that if a stay or stiffener is used it canbe arranged in a pocket extending either parallel to the front edge ofthe collar or at an angle thereto, such as for example, parallel to theedge 12, or at any position between said edge and the front edge of thecollar. it is also to be noted that when a stay is used, the stay willbe carried solely by the reinforcing patch and not by the collar. bodyasis the common practice.

In the embodiment of the invention shown in Fig. 6, the reinforcementpatch is shown at 27, and the same may be generally similar to thatshown in Fig. 4, except that a single line of stitching 26 provides astay-receiving pocket between it and the fold line 28.

The arrangement herein described is such that by the means disclosed thecollar is reinforced and prevented from upward and outward curling bymeans solely arranged at the back of the collar and invisible from thefront as will be clearly seen in Fig. 2.

Having described a single embodiment of the invention, it is obviousthat the same is not to be restricted thereto, but is broad enough tocover all structures coming within the scope of the annexed claim.

What I claim is:

A shirt collar construction comprising a collar body having inner andouter plies stitched togetheralong its lower and forward edges, areinforcement piece consisting of a two-ply generally triangulatedsection of fabric having generally parallel upper and lower edges andconverging side edges being longer than the lower edge and attached onlyat the forward end of the collar body, said piece having one of its sideedges and its upper and lower edges attached to corresponding edges ofthe collar body by said stitching, the plies of the reinforcement pieceadjacent the other side edge being stitched together on parallel linesto provide a stay-receiving pocket, the piece being attached to thecollar body while the piece is under tension and while the collar bodyand piece are being sewed into a'neckband and with the transverse widthof the material of the collar body being greater than the length of thereinforcement piece whereby the reinforcement piece is maintained underconstant tension to resist upward and outward curl of the collar body,and a stay contained in the pocket and carried solely by the reinforcingpiece. 9

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS KurtzJuly 28, 1931 2,070,464 Barrow Feb. 9, 1937 32,183,242 Liebowitz Dec.12, 1939 2,186,356 Bihaly Jan. 9, 1940 --2,500,911 Cohn Man-14, 19502,769,979 Driesbach Nov. 13, 1956 FOREIGN PATENTS 60,282 Norway Sept.28, 1935 nus; an...

